Suit Terminology
100's Two-Ply Broadcloth (fine)
A premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twisted together) which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.
140's Broadcloth (very fine)
A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand and remarkable luster.
200's Two-Ply Broadcloth (extremely fine)
Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers an extremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.
¼" Top Stitch
A more traditional tailoring feature, stitching on the collar and cuff is ¼" from the edge versus edge-stitching which is flush with the edge.
7 fold
The ultimate in neck-wear craft. Silk fabric is folded seven times for a more robust tie. The thickness and absence of lining makes for a well balanced tie that drapes and knots perfectly.
Band Collar
A collar that stands up straight and encircles the neck, without any turn down collar points.
Bengal Stripe
A wider color stripe that alternates with a narrower white stripe.
Besom Pocket
A set-in pocket cut into the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening. Found on shirts and trousers.
Bias
The bias direction of the fabric is diagonally across the grain. While a true bias is cut at a 45 degree angle to the fabric's warp (horizontal) and weft (vertical) threads, a bias cut is any direction in the fabric which does not exactly flow in the direction of the length or width of a fabric. A bias cut also provides for greater stretch, or give in the fabric.
Bird's Eye
A weave that is comprised of small repetitive diamond shapes resembling a bird's eye. Usually found on blazers, trousers and socks. This classic fabric also lends subtle texture to fine dress shirts and suitings.
Blazer
A type of jacket. Although it resembles a suit jacket it is a more casual coat, often with metal buttons.
Button down Collar
A collar that is secured to the shirt by small buttons on both points for both a stylish and practical look. The button down collar was introduced in England during the 1800s to help polo players keep their collars in place while playing. The button down collar is hence considered a more sporty look.
Cashmere
An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-haired Kashmir goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit to produce sweaters, suits, coats, and other winter accessories.
Club Collar
Part of Eton College’s dress code in the 1800’s, the rounded edges of the collar look best on thin faces. The softness of the points softening sharp vertical lines.
Collar Bar
A pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneath the knot of a necktie.
Collar Stay
A small tab that is inserted inside of the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for an overall better shape, fit and roll of a collar.
Continuous Collar/Cuff
A fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical) allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.
Contrasting Collar
A shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt.
Covered Placket
A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a "Fly Front." See also "Placket"
Cuff
Button Cuff, Double Button Cuff, Mitered Cuff, French Cuff, Single Button Cuff
Cummerbund
A broad waistband worn with a tuxedo The pleats, always facing up, were originally used to hold theater tickets.
Cutaway Collar
A collar whose points are pulled back to the side to allow full view of the necktie knot. This is ideal for wide and prominent neckwear that requires an unimpeded presentation.
Double Breasted
Refers to a sport coat, jacket, or similar garment having a wide overlapping of the front flaps and two parallel columns of buttons. A functional inner-button, called the jigger, usually is added to fasten the over-lapped layers together, from the inside. In most double-breasted coats, one column of buttons is decorative, the other functional. Popular double-breasted stylings are 6-on-2 in which there are six buttons, four decorative and two functional and 6-on-1 in which only one of the six buttons is functional.
Double-Faced Fabric
Having a finished face on both sides so that either may be used as the outer, or right side. This makes for a polished look. On sport shirts, double-faced fabric allows for a clean appearance when rolling up sleeves or leaving the shirt unbuttoned layered over one of our comfortable tees.
Double Reverse Pleats
Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat is a 1" depth and second pleat is a ½" depth.
Embedded Collar Stay
In addition to the removable collar stay, this is an added small piece of collar stay that is sewn into the point seam of the collar to give more stability to the collar point. This added piece will prevent the collar points from curling under after several washings. The embedded collar stay is used in the following collars with quarter inch top stitch: Traditional Straight Collar, Windsor Spread Collar, Park Avenue Spread Collar and Double Button Band Spread Collar
English Spread Collar
A wider spread than the Windsor Spread Collar with longer points.
English Tab Collar
The tab collar holds the tie perfectly in place using a snap or button that brings the collar points closer together, creating an always neat appearance.
Epaulet (Epaulette)
French for "little shoulder", epaulettes are bands of fabric, often attached with a button, that adorn the shoulders of a jacket or coat. They were originally used as insignia or rank by the military and other organizations.
European Straight Collar
An edge stitched straight collar for a slightly more modern look. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress Shirt collars.
Fedora
Classic hat style traditionally made of soft felt, however straw and twill fabrics can also be used. The hat is creased lengthwise down the crown and pinched in the front on both sides. For added interest some fedoras include small feathers which are inserted in the band around the crown.
Field Jacket
Of military origin, the Paul Fredrick field jacket is characterized by large lower bellowed pockets and two breast pockets.
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Flat Front
Trousers without pleats. A sleek, clean look.
French Fly
The French fly helps to ensure that the pant front lies flat for a neater, cleaner appearance.
Fully Fashioned
A fully fashioned knit is an indication of a better quality. Compared to a cut-and-sewn knit where the separate pieces are sewn together, fully fashioned is a method of knitting a garment in which the complete unit is shaped and knit on the machine as it is formed. A fully fashioned knit is characterized by fashion marks around the armhole (shoulder) and neckline. The portions of a garment are shaped by increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric, such a narrowing and widening produces the shape of the garment. This results in an overall better fit.
Gabardine
A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using more threads in the warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical.)
Gauge
A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knitting machine in a 1"-1.5" area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, the higher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit. Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.
Gingham
A plain woven fabric typically of a checked pattern in white and another color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated with check, plaid or stripe patterns.
Guabello®
Distinguished Italian Mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, Lanificio Gaubello's® over 150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality. Singular comfort. Remarkable softness. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world
Half Canvas Construction
The inner canvas layer of the suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. While you can't see it, this all important part not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory for your shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.
Half-Lining
A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.
Hand
The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric. Such qualities as softness, silkiness, etc are revealed through the sense of touch.
Handcrafted
A work produced by hand labor.
Handmade
Made by hand or hand process.
Herringbone
A variation on a twill weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed, or broken at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling the skeleton of a herring fish. Herringbone
Hidden Button-down Collar
Similar in appearance to the straight collar, buttons hidden underneath the points hold the collar in place.
Houndstooth
A fabric with distinctive broken checks that resembles the jagged back teeth of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular with hunting clothing, is often found in shirts, sport coats, suits and trousers.
Jacquard
A fabric with a design woven into it. The word jacquard comes from the nineteenth-century French inventor of the special loom this elaborate fabric is woven on, Joseph Marie Jacquard. The jacquard attachment allows for any pattern, no matter how large, small or intricate to be woven in a fabric.
Jersey
Jersey was first made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman's clothing. Today it is commonly found in t-shirts and is very resilient with fine draping qualities and crease-resistance. Jersey wears and washes well.
Keyhole Buttonhole
Characterized by a round hole at the end of the slit to accommodate all types of buttons without distorting the fabric.
Lambswool
A soft, smooth, resilient wool yarn from the first shearing of a sheep younger than eight months old. Fine grade wool.
Linen
A natural fiber produced from the stem of the flax plant. Stronger, stiffer, and more lustrous than cotton, it yields cool absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. An easy and ideal summertime fabric with its breathable qualities.
Lining
Jackets can be fully lined or half lined. A fully lined jacket is lined on the entire inside so no seams show. A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.
Luxury 140's Cotton Broadcloth
A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand and remarkable luster.
Luxury 200's Cotton Broadcloth
Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our Luxury 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers an extremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.
Merino Wool
A better-quality wool yarn made from the fleece of merino sheep. Merino sheep are said to have the finest and softest wool of any sheep.
Microfiber
Continuous filament fibers that can be spun to be thinner than a silk thread and therefore allows man-made fibers to have an array of aesthetic and performance qualities. Microfiber is used to make non-woven, woven and knitted fabrics. The combinations of synthetic fibers can add specific characteristics, such as softness, durability, absorption, wicking abilities and water repellency.
Mock Neck
A knit pullover finished at the neckline with a short, fitted knit band that does not fold over. An abbreviated version of the turtleneck.
Moleskin
A heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to create a short soft pile on one side. Well-known for its buttery-soft, almost suede-like hand, moleskin cotton is also long-wearing and substantial.
Nano Technology
Provides liquid and stain repellency, shape retention and resistance to creasing.
Nested Suit
A suit in which jacket and trousers are sold together. The nested suit also sometimes includes a vest. Compare to Suit Separates in which jacket and trousers are sold separately.
Non-Iron Cotton
Enjoy the comfort of cotton without the wrinkles for a clean, crisp presentation. Garments which are 'non-iron' have seams which are taped to prevent puckering. The completed garment is [then] treated with an ammonia process, pressed and baked to make the entire garment wrinkle free.
Notch Lapel
A collar that has a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar.
Oxford
A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish. Well known for men's shirts, it is also used for summer jackets and sportswear. Originated by a Scottish mill, oxford was one of their four shirting fabrics named after famous universities, along with Harvard, Yale and Cambridge.
Park Avenue Spread Collar
The middle ground between a Traditional straight and Windsor spread collar, the Park Avenue is a bit more spread than the straight and less than the Windsor.
Patch Pocket
A flat, outside pocket stitched onto a garment with a straight hem opening - Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered Pocket, and Button-Through Pocket.
Peak Lapel
A lapel in which a v-shaped seam is formed where the collar meets it.
Pick Stitching
A large stitch that simulates a hand stitch. The pick stitch is done around the lapel and pockets of a jacket.
Pinpoint Oxford
A finer yarn and tighter weave than oxford. A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish.
Pinstripe
A pattern of very thin, crisp lines, usually in gray or white, evenly woven into fabric. The pinstripe suit has become associated with conservative business attire, but is easily updated for a more refreshing look.
Piping
A narrow fold of fabric in a seam to provide decorative embellishment. Usually seen in sport coats, suit jackets, and blazers in a contrasting color.
Pleats
A fold of fabric made by doubling material over on itself. Pleating provides more volume to a garment and is often used as a decorative feature.
Polyester
A man-made fiber resistant to shrinkage and wrinkling. Polyester is often combined with other fibers such as wool and cotton as a way to provide low-maintenance dressing options.
Polynosic
Known for luxurious softness and superior drape, polynosic is a type of natural microfiber. Considered finer quality than regular rayon yarns, it resists stretching to maintain shape over time.
Quarter Top Pockets
Front trouser pockets starting a quarter of the way in from the side seam
Reda®
Since 1865, Reda® wool has been world renowned for quality, luxury and refinement. The finest fleece, decades of artisan experience, technological innovation and Italian mastery converge to form a truly superior fabric.
Rib Knit
A knitted fabric characterized by lengthwise ribs formed by wales alternating on the face and back of the cloth. Rib knits have greater elasticity in the width than in the length and tend to fit to the body. They are durable and do not stretch out of shape after wear.
Rise
Distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband in pants.
Sand-washed Silk
A process by which the silk is treated to give it an even softer surface, almost suede-like in feel. This fabric is incredibly soft, has a matte surface and drapes beautifully.
Scalloped Facing
A border that contains continuous curves.
Seersucker
A mid to lightweight fabric that has a characteristic permanent puckered striped effect created through releasing the tension on the loom during weaving.
Shawl Collar
A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the neck to the front.
Silk
A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, with which the worm weaves its cocoon. Silk is soft, has a brilliant sheen, and is very strong and absorbent. A luxurious fabric, silk is lush to the touch.
Soft Collar
Edge-stitched for a more European attitude, the soft collar is best suited to sport shirts.
Soft Coat Construction
•ofter findings used inside for construction that drapes rather than traditional firm construction which hugs the body. Counter-intuitively, a less constructed sport coat actually takes longer to tailor. Exposed seams require precision inside and out.
Single Breasted
A jacket having one row of buttons on a narrow overlap. Paul Fredrick single-breasted jackets and sportcoats are offered in two- or three-buttons. These buttons are generally uncovered, or can be covered on a fly front model.
Single Needle Tailoring
Refers to a lock-stitch which has two rows of single needle stitching locking the seam together as opposed to chain stitch.
Single Pleat
Sport coat
Of the same cut as a suit jacket, a sport coat is more casual and designed to be worn on its own, not as part of a suit.
Stretch Armhole
A piece of stretch fabric that is sewn in the back of the jacket lining around the armhole. The stretch fabric allows for better ease of movement.
Super Wools
The story of this thread is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills, these fabrics are made using high-tech machines that spin wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The various grades of cloth are referred to as Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s. Make Super 100s and Super 120s the mainstay of your wardrobe. They are durable, resilient, and today's fabrics are superb. Treat the Super 150s and Super 180s as caviar, wonderful, but not to be worn every day, for these really are connoisseurs' suits.
Tessitura Monti
Based in the north of Italy, Tessitura Monti is known for high quality 100% Egyptian cotton shirtings. In business for over 98 years, Monti is proud to be continuing in their belief of providing superb quality of design and production.
Traditional Straight Collar
A universal collar; the most versatile, easy to wear style. Click here for a visual comparison of Dress Shirt collars.
Trim Fit
Also referred to as a slim cut, the body of the shirt is 5” narrower in the chest tapering to 6” narrower at the waist. A perfect fit for those who do not need the full body cut of a regular fit dress shirt.
Tropical Weight Wool
A smooth wool fabric made from two-ply yarns in an open plain weave. Lightweight and airy, this fabric is great for summer wear.
Varsity Spread Collar
A shorter version of the Windsor Spread, updated with slightly curved lines.
Vent
A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (tail) of the jacket. There are three vent options in a jacket: center vent, side vents or no vent.
Virgin Wool
Wool spun for the first time.
Windsor Spread Collar
A conservative spread collar appropriate for any occasion.
Wool
A fiber obtained from the fleece of a sheep. It is a resilient and wrinkle resistant fabric. Wool can hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. A great fabric for keeping warm in the cold winter months.
Yarn
A strand of textile fibers joined together, used for weaving or knitting into fabric.
Yoke
The shaped section at the shoulders that connects all the other parts of the shirt. One-piece yokes allow for greater ease of movement where split yokes provide a more tailored look.
Zegna Baruffa Yarns
A wide range of yarns that appear clean and smooth, flowing and extremely light. Zegna Baruffa is an Italian firm with a long tradition of high quality and excellence.